Sophisticated silhouettes, dusty color palettes and a trip to the ´70s
There is something special about fashion weeks. I don´t know if it´s the mystery around the upcoming collections, the curiosity of which celebrity is seated front row, the invisible link between people unknown to each other, yet seen walking in clusters from one show and presentation to another.
Or perhaps it´s the transformations within the business of fashion, delivered by talented designers. Slowly changing our perception, preferences and the way we create and consume fashion. It must be added to the list of abnormal fashion week behavior that designer Ida Klamborn initiated #democraticfrontrow. Basically, she invited “regular” people to attend her fashion show “BUT I’M SOFT AT HEART” to be seated front row.
This seasons design is not surprisingly emphasizing our nature and environment however, the way everything was presented has to be mentioned: we took a carpool to the ´70s with Hunkydory and a flash back to the ´80s, an era full of neon signs. Naim Josefi took us to the future, with ecological denim as key fabric in his collection GANGS. Using a super environmental-friendly laser to print the graphics, he kindly reminds us that his inspiration for GANGS derives from Yves Saint Laurent´s The Mondrian collection from 1965, which marked a whole new era for fashion presented at catwalks: ready-to-wear.
We saw design aiming to boost us to wear creative garments in our everyday life. Not to mention the Fashion Week Lounge, a subtle spot where people is either chatting about the latest show or updating (all) their social media channels. Or just sat there, enjoying a cold and crispy Blanc.
Yes, there is definitely something special about Fashion Weeks, and this is our guide to you about it. Hang along!
Highlights of Stockholm Fashion Week AW17, Day 1
Our schedule, day 1.
12-13 Mouche the apartment x Swedish Fashion Council presents Swedish Fashion Talents Jewellery, Brahegatan 2
Me and Madeleine started our Stockholm Fashion Week AW17 tour with ”Visionary Voices”, an exhibition to support the forward thinking of the Swedish fashion industry. Presenting the winners of Swedish Fashion Talents Jewellery category in an inspirational and carefully curated and created setting at Dusty Decos new visionary venue, the exhibition showcased extraordinary creations of KSW Jewellery, BAUMGARTEN DI MARCO and BOW LABEL. Perfectly creating and crafting new pieces and still keeping the classic in the making, ”Visionary Voices” was a savvy, urban way to exhibit innovative design that has focus on crafting, personality and beauty as much as sustainability.
14.00 “GANGS” by Naim Josefi, Berns, Stora Salongen
The first A/W17 catwalk we attended. Naim Josefi´s GANGS is a tribute to Yves Saint Laurent´s The Mondrian collection from 1965 which marked a new era in fashion: ready-to-wear. Using denim as key fabric, Josefi kept the collection simple and accessible: denim garments with sequin details and three Haute Couture dresses made-to-order.
GANGS has a monochrome color range such as black, white, grey and blue with laser printed graphic pattern. The collection is simple and quick to style, and according to Josefi, fashion should play a role and make everyday life easier, and this is possible by providing garments that are aesthetically correct and gives a subconscious boost.
“I hope that GANGS will inspire my customers to wear creative items in their everyday lives. During the design process, I thought a lot about the movie “Gangs of New York” and I want my design to make you feel strong in the tough times we live in,” says Naim Josefi, Creative Director and Founder.
Before, in between and after shows, there are moments worth capturing. Like the two girls, sitting in a corner in the Fashion Lounge, illustrating the latest show, drawing shapes and colors to trends and details. Or all the people enjoying each others company and a bottle of Blanc, the official beer of SFW AW17. Decorated with spring flowers, the lounge offered a spot for spontaneous meetings, catch ups, and content to Instagram Stories.
Just before the catwalks, while waiting for the models entering the catwalk, we took our spot next to the photographers. It´s a lovely feeling to hear the sound of the camera capturing every single detail of the collections presented. Sometimes, I wish I could see the world through a photographers lens.
17.00 Busnel, Berns, Stora Salongen
Celebrating the classic with modern, Busnel and Robert Rydberg took a step further with their AW17 collection without losing the French Heritage and strong focus on the Busnel woman: sophisticated, independent and feminine who easily transforms her outfit for any occasions. Lovely highlights in the collection are the Thin Stripes, such as the long coat, straight trousers, short jacket and the pencil skirt (loved it!). The collection presented is as always elegant, yet casual and as Busnel themselves describe it “it plays with the contrasts of volume, tailoring and femininity”. A a lot focus on the details and silhouettes such as the tailored waists, slits and long sleeves.
Back in the 1920s, when Busnel´s journey started at the french west coast, the material they used was strictly high quality wool. However, in the AW17 collection, we saw a wonderful mix of materials lite satin silk, leather, merino wool, silk jacquard, cashmere, cotton poplin and boiled wool. Inspired by the nature, the color palette included shades of black, blue, grey, beige, bordeaux and taupe (a color between brown and grey).
18.00 Velvet & Cream by Lazoschmidl, Kulturhuset, Stadsteatern
This was, without exaggerating the best fashion show I have been to! Designer duo Josef Lazo and Andreas Schmidl took us back to the ´80s. Do you remember that decade? We all danced like a virgin, longing for extremely expansive mobile phones. Walls were covered with neon signs with brands name and “Internet” Watching Lazoschmidl´s AW17 was an experience that is now stucked in my memory bank. The fashion show gave me a trip to my childhood, when I was chewing Jenka, trying to look cool while drinking “Turkish Pepper” and putting on lipstick scented with berries. Amazing show and a fantastic collection!
19.00 Vintage Glamour Through The Eyes of Today, Hunkydory, Berns, Stora Salongen
“A group of teenagers at an after party, digging into the wardrobe of an eccentric ‘70s rockstar. This was the imagined scenario that started the Hunkydory AW17 collection. The result is a rich mashup of disparate references; Victorian lace, military regalia and ‘70s bohemia. All irreverently mixed with modern takes on deconstructed denim, bomber jackets and street wear. The story built on this interesting clash between old and now, high and low, dressy and casual.
Offering a rich variety of expressive pieces, the collection opens up for reinterpretation according to each individual’s style. Depending on how it is worn, a leopard-printed fur or a bullion-embroidered officer’s jacket can create completely different impacts. Highlights include highly military regalia, luxurious materials velvet, lace, ostrich feathers and embroidered lace. Mixed with deconstructed denim, nylon bomber jackets and printed jersey sweatshirts.”
Source: Press announcement
Stay tuned for Day 2, love & cheers for now!